How to Know if You Have Grub Worms St Augustine
Diagnosing St. Augustine'due south Problems
Did y'all ever have a friend who came with a lot of extra "baggage?" Most of the states have. St. Augustine certainly has luggage, and diagnosing its ills tin can be a claiming even to the best professional turf people.
I've grown St. Augustine since I was 10 years onetime (except for 5 years in Ohio), and so I experience similar I'm qualified to assistance sort through the fog.
Here are the most common St. Augustine problems arranged in rough chronological order of when they will appear, spring through late autumn. Knowing when a problem get-go appeared is a giant outset step in identifying it.
Have All Root Rot (TARR)
• Take All Root Rot (TARR). A problem in April and May (rarely subsequently). Grass is lethargic in greening up. Shows up in blotches and irregular patches. CRITICAL SYMPTOM: Grass pulls loose from the soil easily, considering as the name implies, the roots take been rotted by the fungal organism. THE ODDITY: Fungicides don't do much adept. THE FACT: Texas A&Thousand research has shown the states that applying a layer of sphagnum peat moss one inch deep over the affected surface area and several feet beyond the edges of the yellowed patches of grass will help greatly. The disease is not agile in acidic environments. PERSONAL OPINION: A lot of other St. Augustine bug get diagnosed as TARR and people spend (waste material) a ton of coin on peat when the trouble is something else. (See chinch bugs and shade, below)
White chow worm
• White grub worms. Impairment shows up in the leap. Critical SYMPTOMS: Grass pulls loose easily from the soil because roots have been eaten past the white grubs (larvae of June beetles – the small beetles that fly in belatedly May in South Texas into mid-June in North Texas). If you dig several foursquare-foot patches in the afflicted areas you will see 5 or half dozen grubs per foursquare feet. If you encounter only one or two, grubs are non the cause. In that location are insecticides labeled for controlling white grubs soon after they hatch, but this is NOT the time to treat. Merit should be practical the terminal two weeks of June through mid-July, and then watered deeply into the soil. PERSONAL Stance: Chow worm damage is nowhere near as mutual now as it was during the epidemic infestations of the 1970s. People need to exist sure they're actually seeing several grubs per square foot and not just several grubs during an entire day spent working in the landscape. Remember: Yous must take five or 6 grubs per square foot for them to do damage. Grass tin outgrow smaller populations.
Gray leaf spot in summer
• Grey leaf spot. Shows up in mid-summer. Fungal organism causes the disease, but information technology is greatly accelerated by application of nitrogen. Lawn has yellowed washes and sweeps when viewed from the sides. Individual blades and even runners will take diamond-shaped, gray-brown lesions slightly bigger than pinhead-sized. Apply labeled fungicide, simply practise non apply nitrogen between June xv and early on September. Occurs in sun and shade, and tin weaken the lawn severely, even kill areas. But does non appear in spring.
Chinch bugs in summertime
• Chinch bugs. Small-scale black insects with white, diamond-shaped patches on their wings. Always in the hottest, sunniest parts of the lawn. Never in shade, and won't show up until belatedly June through Baronial. Grass volition appear dry, simply watering won't perk information technology back up. Will return to same parts of m each year. First symptom: grass blades fold and plough glossy olive drab. As mentioned, watering doesn't assistance. You lot must apply a labeled insecticide rapidly or the grass will be killed in the afflicted areas. PERSONAL Observation: 2016 was the worst year I have seen for chinch bugs in my professional person career, and many of the problems people are seeing this leap are actually leftover dead grass from chinch issues damage of late summer and early fall 2016. There is no reason to treat now, merely y'all may have to replant with new plugs into the affected areas. I believe chinch bugs are/were a major source of the backyard bug this spring.
Brown patch in fall
• Brown patch. This is a cool-weather condition disease that doesn't testify up until belatedly September or October, and mainly after the first fall rains. It is a leafage disease that rots the blades where they attach to the runners. They pull loose easily from the runners. Runners and roots remain salubrious and vigorous. Because January 2017 found extremely low temperatures plunging securely into Texas, St. Augustine lawns in South Texas that usually never turn brown from the cold did so this year. That means that the blades were turned chocolate-brown by the cold, so in that location is very little hazard of brown patch showing up this jump. PERSONAL Stance: Most people who think they accept brown patch right now actually have some other problem.
Connected Below
• Cold impairment. The January 2017 cold spell was bad, but I don't accept the sense that it killed a lot of St. Augustine. The diverseness Floratam is notably wintertime-tender, however, and it is ordinarily planted in the southern third of Texas. If you had Floratam that has been ho-hum to green up, your lawn may have been hurt by the extreme common cold. Other varieties probably were non. You lot may accept to replant if common cold got your turf.
St. Augustine thins in shade
• SHADE! This is the virtually common question I am asked. (I go along records of every phone telephone call I take on the air, and in that location have been 450,000 of them over my twoscore years. Then I have a pretty good sampling.) People ask what kind of grass does all-time in the shade, and for most of Texas, that reply is St. Augustine (fescue for the Panhandle).
BUT ALL GRASSES, ST. AUGUSTINE INCLUDED, NEED 5 TO 6 HOURS OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT DAILY.
I meet people resodding time after time hoping that this volition be the year that a miracle happens. (I've done it, also.) If y'all don't accept that much sunlight, there is no grass that volition grow at that place. Either y'all accept to remove a tree or two – or perhaps have a lower co-operative or two removed, or y'all have to plow to a shade-tolerant groundcover such every bit monkeygrass (regular mondograss), liriope, majestic wintercreeper, English ivy, etc. Thinning trees won't offer much long-term assist. They will fill back in.
CRITICAL SYMPTOM: If the body of your tree is like an arrow in a bulls centre, and if the thinning gets worse as you move toward the outer baste line of the tree, shade is the culprit and you lot're wasting money to invest in more sod. This is not most the trees taking wet or nutrients. Information technology'south all virtually excessive shade. Remember: no sod subcontract is in shaded conditions. They're all in full sun.
(Modified for e-gardens from Facebook post made by Neil on April 13, 2017.)
Posted by Neil Sperry
Source: https://neilsperry.com/2017/04/diagnosing-st-augustines-problems/
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